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Standing next to immense emerald fields and sparkling ponds, the Dau Pagoda in former Ha Tay Province (now part of extended Hanoi) has been keeping a secret for four centuries.
The secret lies in the deaths of two monks whose mummified bodies sit on display. The monks were heads of the pagoda in back-to-back eras, in the early and mid-17th century, who both died meditating. I had been wanting to visit the pagoda for ages and see their mummified remains, but only recently was I able to make the trip.
As we walked over to the mossy green walls of the three-door gate, I was taken aback by the serenity of the scene. It was a quiet winter afternoon, and only the sound of leaves falling and ducks flapping their wings on the ponds broke the silence. I jumped at the resounding sound of the bell, which sent a touching shiver down my spine as if touched by something other wordly.
King Le Than Tong (1649-62) had called this region An Nam De Nhat Danh Lam (the most famous landscape of An Nam, an old name for Viet Nam). The pagoda is just 24km south of Hanoi at the end of Gia Phuc Village, Nguyen Trai Commune, Thuong Tin District.
Equipped with incense to honor the sanctity of those we were visiting, we made a quick tour of the pagoda, walking on the precious stone floors from the Ly dynasty (1010-1225). Two stone dragons guard the staircase in the main hall, masterpieces from the Tran Dynasty, winding around waves on blocks of stone.
I was fascinated by the ancient architectural style, the beautiful sculptures and carvings on beams, columns and panels. Each piece depicts traditional figures, including the four sacred animals: dragon, kylin, turtle and phoenix. All of the buildings, including the main hall, the worship house, the temple and the monks’ houses, were built of rectangular bricks, dating back to the Mac dynasty (1527-92).